{"id":8215,"date":"2019-02-03T13:47:30","date_gmt":"2019-02-03T12:47:30","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/bjornfree.com\/travel\/?p=8215"},"modified":"2025-07-09T23:01:16","modified_gmt":"2025-07-09T22:01:16","slug":"winter-in-trondheim","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/bjornfree.com\/travel\/2019\/02\/winter-in-trondheim\/","title":{"rendered":"Winter in Trondheim"},"content":{"rendered":"

Tr\u00f8ndelag is the least visited part of Norway.\u00a0It’s far enough to the north to be cold and have an unstable climate, yet it’s too far to the south to offer reliable northern lights. It doesn’t have the dramatic fjords, mountains or islands of western and northern Norway either. But it does have Trondheim, a great stopover on your journey between the major sights of the country.<\/p>\n

January can be a miserable month for visiting any part of Norway, unless you come with the right clothes and mentality. Depending on how familiar you are with coldness and darkness, winter here can be fascinating, scary and beautiful in its own way.<\/p>\n

I recommend going for a walk around Trondheim on a winter’s night. The city is full of cozy neighborhoods and old buildings, best appreciated with no noisy cars or people around. At night you’ll find Trondheim to be all quiet, especially in January. I’ll show you.<\/p>\n<\/div><\/div>

\"\u00d8vre<\/a><\/div>

We begin our walk at \u00d8vre Elvehavn, leaving the city center across Bakke bru\/bridge. There are several hotels here, like Radisson Royal Garden<\/a> on the left side here and Scandic Nidelven<\/a> just behind it. If you plan on staying there during the winter, check out their Black Friday sales. It can work out cheaper than two dorm beds at a hostel.<\/p>\n<\/div><\/div>

\"Bakklandet<\/a><\/div>

It’s a perfect night for a winter walk. It’s been snowing the whole night, and it was snowing all of yesterday. The Bakklandet neighbourhood looks its absolute best when semi-covered in white.<\/p>\n<\/div><\/div>

\"Christmas<\/a><\/div>

Many of the Bakklanders chose to leave the Christmas decorations up, even though we’re approaching the end of January. Can’t blame them. It certainly adds to the atmosphere.<\/p>\n<\/div><\/div>

\"Walking<\/a><\/div>

A man is taking his dog for a cold walk. Otherwise it’s all quiet in these picturesque streets lined with wooden houses and semi-buried trees.<\/p>\n<\/div><\/div>

\"Car<\/a><\/div>

Did I mention the unstable climate of Trondheim? Because it is. Our walk of a few hours takes us through an even mix of everything from full-on blizzard and mild snow to clear skies. I’m happy I remembered to bring some tissue to wipe the camera lens with. I’m also happy I’m not among the ones who will start their day by digging out a car, preferably their own on the first try.<\/p>\n<\/div><\/div>

\"View<\/a><\/div>

The snowfall ends, and Trondheim again turns into that village-like lovely mix of old wooden houses and modern city. A full moon in combination with all the fresh snow means the night isn’t that dark at all.<\/p>\n<\/div><\/div>

\"View<\/a><\/div>

Further up the hill towards the Kristiansten fortress we find a great vantage point. A bend on the river Nidelven is crossed by Elgeseter bridge, and on the northern side of it we see the Nidaros Cathedral. We’ll get down there later.<\/p>\n

A new wall of falling snow approaches from the south, but for now most of the city is serene and silent.<\/p>\n<\/div><\/div>

\"Kristiansten<\/a><\/div>

I know that I’m all alone up at the fortress, yet I can’t shake off the feeling I’m being watched.<\/p>\n

Eventually I figure it out. Faces in places.<\/p>\n<\/div><\/div>

I know that I’m all alone up at the fortress, yet I can’t shake off the feeling I’m being watched.<\/p>\n

Eventually I figure it out. Faces in places.<\/p>\n<\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div><\/section>

<\/div><\/div><\/div>

Twenty years ago I studied in Trondheim, at the Hogwarts-like NUTS over there; the Norwegian University of Technology and Sorcery.<\/span><\/p>\n

It’s a good place for learning that you know nothing, and rarely have I seen it look nicer than surrounded by these huge masses of snow.<\/span><\/p>\n<\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div><\/section>

\"Nidaros<\/a><\/div>

Another quick look at the cathedral. It’s visible from almost anywhere in Trondheim. This is thanks to a local law that says that no building in the city center can be taller than the cathedral. No exceptions.<\/p>\n

It’s not a large city center, either. You don’t have to wander far to enjoy a nice walk in the woods.<\/p>\n<\/div><\/div>

\"Bicyclist<\/a><\/div>

We’re back down in the streets of Bakklandet again. A few souls have started their day. Trondheim has a large student community, and many of them are eager bicyclists. A foot or two of snow will not stop them from making the streets more dangerous. It’s okay. Even with these guys around, there’s basically nothing to worry about here. Trondheim is a safe place. (Unless you’re from Bergen.)<\/p>\n<\/div><\/div>

\"Danielsbakerveita<\/a><\/div>

The city centre is full of narrow alleys, “veiter”. And they look fantastic after this night’s major snowfall.<\/p>\n<\/div><\/div>

\"Fjordgata<\/a><\/div>

The old trading houses look good from the street-side as well. They’re all protected now, and will keep looking this way forever, it seems. Inside them there’s a lot of change going on, though. Thanks to the university, Norway’s top tech cradle, lots of exciting technology is developed here.<\/p>\n<\/div><\/div>

\"Sandgata<\/a><\/div>

This road leads towards another old and cozy neighborhood on Trondheim’s west side, Ila. Inviting as it may be, we’ll go south from here.<\/p>\n<\/div><\/div>

\"V\u00e5r<\/a><\/div>

At the southern end of Munkegata we find V\u00e5r Frue kirke, “Our Lady’s Church”. It’s about 800 years old, which makes it a nice warm-up act before we continue our walk south.<\/p>\n<\/div><\/div>

\"Nidaros<\/a><\/div>

The main attraction of Trondheim is lurking in the background through dark alleys all over the city.<\/p>\n<\/div><\/div>

\"The<\/a><\/div>

And there it is in all its splendor; Nidarosdomen, the Nidaros Cathedral.<\/p>\n

Construction began in 1070, and it took more than two centuries to get it to pretty much the shape you see now. It’s the northernmost medieval cathedral in the world, and the burial site of Saint Olaf. For almost a thousand years it has been a popular destination for pilgrims. A 650 kilometer Pilgrim’s Route from Oslo to here is well maintained, with many overnight facilities available.<\/p>\n

By the way, this photo is a bit deceiving. In blizzard-like conditions, I have to resort to using long exposure to make it appear like a peaceful place. If you want to see what it really looked like, check out the short video below.<\/p>\n<\/div><\/div>