The new market, Altyn Azyr, is nothing like the famous old Tolkuchka Bazaar. It's almost impossible to achieve a proper case of food poisoning or typhoid fever here, something you were almost sure to catch at the old one, closer to the city centre. This was, of course, much of the reason why the market was moved, and it's a good thing. However, it also means that the market isn't that magical place you imagine when you hear about old Central Asian markets with Silk Road heritage ...